Ok, the last addition to this topic and then Iām abandoning it - because I can neither edit nor delete it. Iāll start a new topic on this device Iām building.
Anyway, hereās the last breakout board with six pots on it. Next thing is preparing (milling, drilling) the enclosure, as discussed above.
Thanks, @jon, but no, still canāt edit. No worries, Iāll just start another thread: Iāve already got the chassis milled, drilled and painted, so thereās more to show
Ok, just donāt bother )) As I said, when I finish building the box in a couple of weeks, Iāll just start a new topic.
P.S. Maybe I canāt edit it because the topic has reached a certain limit of views/comments/likes? Reading the documnetation for the forumās enginge could help, but itās just not worth the time.
Thanks! Yes, it is way bigger, and to some extent it is by design, but also a bit unfortunate: for one, there are two rows of footswitches, four switches in a row, so, naturally, the box must be wide enough to accomodate for stomping without accidentally touching the other switches; on the other hand, the encosure is 65mm high, way higher than the Dwarf, and I donāt like it, but I couldnāt find a slimmer box anywhere for the life of me (I got this one off AliExpress, of course), and Iām too lasy to mess around with sheet metal, or to have the chassis made to order.
The āgutsā of the box are quite primitive in design though (I didnāt use any SMD components, thatās something for the next gen maybe), so theyād probably not fit into a slimmer chassis.
As I promised to @Jon, Iāll make a demo video of my device once I put it all together.
For now, hereās the comparison of the Dwarf and the Elf (as I call my box - should probably call 'em Gimli and Legolas lol) next to each other:
All right, a quick poll for you guys! Which knob to use for the pots? Iāve got three options, letās vote, left to right - A, B, C. A pick is for scale ))
whoa - that is big. But looks sturdy and more space for footswitches is always a good point.
The hight would be a problem for me when pressing footswitches heel down - I always had problems adjusing to them even with the dwarfs hight when mounted on a pedalboard.
And again great stuff - looking forward of borrowing a lot of your pcb and code
I press the foot switches with the toes, not heel, so less of a problem to me. But again, this is a proof of concept for me, maybe Iāll build another one, more slim. Maybe.
I doubt it a bitā¦it would miss a bit the purpose of the forum. The only close thing I believe would be if you post a lot without any other user interaction.
Thank you a lot, Iām really curious about this!
My suggestion to take especially the highness is to somehow set a pedalboard where you place both with a kind of shelf that raises the Dwarf. This may be super obvious - sorry about that - but it was the best solution that I found to put together the Dwarf and some MIDI pedal to load snapshots.
Iām a bit far from this now, but when Iām back in Berlin next week I can take some pictures and share them with you
First and foremost, I am genuinely glad that MOD Devices is back on its feet.
Secondly, I have finished building the hardware part of the device (a few photos attached).
The software part is 80-90% complete, I need to work on the menu, add a few features, but the most important thing that Iāll be waiting for, software-wise, is an update of the control chain protocol that would fix the issue with switching snapshots with a cc device.
Not at all, since the beauty of the Control Chain protocol is that you can assign any footswitch or knob to any plugin/function. Though I did have that plugin in mind while designing the interface, I must admit. My problem though is that I cannot purchase the lp3 looper, or any other plugin for that matter.
Thanks, @Austin73!
This is how I did the lettering: (1) spray paint the chassis, 2 or 3 layers, wait for the paint to dry (2) put a masking tape over the place where the lettering would be; (3) laser engrave the letters on a cnc machine right through the tape and through the paint, so that the letters are etched into the paint; (4) fill the etched letters with white paint (I borrowed my wifeās white acrylic paint marker - if your wife doesnāt have one, she should get one, so that you can borrow it, this is crucial); (5) while the white paint is still wet, gently remove the tape, if needed clean up the lettersā edges with a piece of cloth or a cotton pad (you should know where your wife keeps those before you get to do the lettering); (6) spray over with transparent acrylic coating.
It takes some nerve and steady hands, I experimented and practiced on a spare piece of aluminium before I got to the unit itself.
Itās a painstaking process so if anyone knows a better way of doing it please please let me know.
I say start looking by checking her garage or your father-in-lawās toolshed. Them women be very cunning when it comes to hiding machinery from their lawful husbands: I still canāt find where my wife hides her 3D printer for the life of me!
P.S. There are not-so-expensive cnc machines on Aliexpress that can do the job. This is a treacherous path though, itās never enough and you always want more, just like GAS with guitars or other musical gear. Well, you kno.